Cosplay Tip: Staff/Spear Details
Some cosplays require large props such as staffs or spears that have woodwork detail on the ends as seen in my CardCaptor Sakura cosplay.
For these details here is an easy trick for people who don’t know how to use or don’t have access to woodworking tools.
You can purchase a wooden dowel and drill a hole into the end. After that you can purchase a pre-made table leg with a screw on the tip.(usually $3 or less at Lowes or Home Depot)
They come in multiple sizes and designs and you can just screw them into the dowel, paint, and Done!
Easy and it looks like you spent ages on it. Have fun with your cosplays!
A Field Guide to Cottons
Things that are true of all cottons - they’re natural fiber, breathe well, are machine-washable but will tend to shrink a little over time in hot water/hot dryer cycles. They can be dyed using either direct dyes (the type found in Rit Dye or Dylon) or fiber reactive dyes. Fiber reactive dyes require more steps to use but generally produce brighter colors that won’t fade in the wash or with exposure to light. Cottons are easy to work with, as they fray only moderately and aren’t slippery.
Broadcloth - A thin, plain weave that tends to be inexpensive but not particularly high quality, and doesn’t drape very well. It also tends to feel sort of stiff and scratchy. Uses: Applique, mock-ups, things you deliberately want to look ‘cheap’.
Kona Cotton - A fine plain-weave - the threads are a little thicker than in broadcloth, but tightly packed which gives it an even appearance and a decent drape. It’s much softer than broadcloth, too Uses: Areas of flat color and texture, casual clothes or historical/psuedo-historical outfits where you want a little weave to show.
Coarse plain-weave - JoAnn’s sells this as ‘Quilters Only Solids’ (possibly now Legacy Studio Solids? Their site is conflicting) - it has thicker threads than broadcloth or Kona cotton, which results in a very visible weave with a decent drape. Uses: Places you want to use linen but don’t have the money, historical outfits you want a handmade look to the fabric for.
Cotton Sateen - This is a satin-weave cotton, which means that unlike the plain-weaves it has a ‘right’ and ‘wrong’ side. The right side is very smooth, and has a slight sheen to it, and the fabic is more drapey and flowy than flat-weaves, as well as. Machine washing will get rid of some of the finish Uses: Places where you’d use plain cotton but want something slightly dressier OR places you might use a satin but want something slightly less dressy.
Cotton Twill - Twill-weaves also have a right and wrong side, though it’s harder to spot. The main characteristic is that twill-weave produces a fine diagonal pattern on the fabric. They’re thicker than the flat-weaves I mentioned above and don’t drape as easily, but the weight means that they hold shapes nice and crisply. Uses: Most varieties of pants, lightweight jackets, casual skirts and dresses, most types of military uniforms.
Denim - A heavier-weight twill weave (as anyone who owns jeans can check!). The traditional blue is indigo-dyed, but you can find a variety of colors these days, including white. It’s stiffer than regular twill, and a little more rugged. Uses: Pants, skirts, casual dresses and jackets.
Cotton duck/canvas - Denim’s flat-weave counterpart - it’s also stiff and rugged, but tends to have a slightly less attractive look to it because of the weave. Uses: Pants, bags and accessories, anything you want a seriously rugged look to.
Cotton Knit- by virtue of it’s construction, very stretchy! You can usually find it in more than one weight, and sometimes with ribbing but it’s basic properties are the same. Unless blended with lycra or Spandex, it’ll stretch out, but not bounce back to it’s original size without washing. Generally soft and very drapey. Uses: Athletic wear, shirts, dresses.
Cotton Velveteen - This is a short-pile fabric with both cotton pile and cotton. It’s fibers are shorter than actual velvet, and the use of cotton means it’s not as shimmery or drapey. It also tends to have a slightly stiffer backing. Note that cutting it will inevitably result in little bits of fuzz everywhere - lint rollers are your friend! Uses: Formal wear.
Flannel - a plain or twill-weave cotton that’s been brushed to raise up fibers on both sides. It tends not to be heavy, but very soft and warm. Uses: Shirts, pjs, anything you want to have a ‘soft’ look without a lot of thickness.
(I may do another version of this with photos but I’m not sure I have all the weaves in my bin. Also, first in hopefully a series about fabrics *G*)
Turian Collar - http://neeravakarian.deviantart.com/art/Turian-Collar-360428888
"Halloween Makeup: Winifred Sanderson from Hocus Pocus"
by YouTube user goldiestarling
Attack on the World’s Shittiest Load Bearing Harness
My concept for laying out the load bearing harness. Primarily based off experience/studies of military equipment, specifically:
So basically we’re trying to combine these three systems, throw in some random stirrups, and tack on a bunch of unnecessary greeblies.
I’ve recolored the straps in order to make them more distinct. Each color should be an individual segment of webbing, aside from the below the thighs, where I went ahead and used duplicate colors for the sides since they don’t intersect.
Basically there’s a shoulder holster rig….I may consider replacing it with a more traditional design if this doesn’t work but for now I’ve designed it to imitate the look from the show. I’m personally going to try using a hard backplate made out of sintra instead of a fabric one (as is common) but I may also test it with a fabric back piece to see if it works.
Moving down to the light blue/hot pink sections, the goal of these is to basically become suspender extensions that hook into the “shoulder holster” section. Some finangling will be required to ensrue they stay in the correct position..I imagine something on the inner side of the holster might help guide everything.
Combined together, the shoulder holster and the suspender extensions should effectively lift the “battle belt” (which is seperate from the belt used to keep your pants up) just like a pair of regular suspenders. Except they are ridiculously complicated.
The biggest deviation I’m looking at is setting up the thigh rigs to ensure they are actually supported by the belt. A lot of the chinese-made rigs I’ve seen have the groin/butt criss cross extend down to the legs, meaning it is not effectively transferring weight from the thigh piece.
Thigh rigs are some of the most annoying things I’ve ever had to wear in the military. They always have a tendency to drop down unless you have your waist belt cinched nice and tight, and well on top of the hips. It’s not uncommon to utilize suspenders if you have a lot of heavy weight on your thigh rigs…for example, prop 3dMG. The belts that wrap around your thighs should not be expected to do any sort of load bearing. Their whole purpose should be just to keep the panel against your leg. All the weight should be transferred to the belt, and by extension to your suspenders, putting the weight on your hips and shoulder.
Why they use the insane criss cross pattern is beyond me, but by turning it into a Y-shape that attaches the thigh panel to your belt, it should make it far more effective at carrying weight, reducing the necessity of those extra straps often seen on prop 3dMG running the weight up to the belt.
PS Ignore the lower legs/stirrups. I haven’t given them too much thought as they are the least ‘functional’ of the straps, being pretty much purely decorative. in cosplay.
Sailor Cosmos Staff Tutorial~
Monomi Plushie instructions from Cosmode 49, 2013. Download the pattern and high-res instruction scans here. If the link breaks, or the pattern isn’t clear, I’ll re-upload it at a higher dpi.
Materials as far as I can tell are:
- 120cm x 130cm white fleece
- 93cm x 58cm baby pink fleece
- 20cm x 18cm peach felt for the ribbon
- 7cm x 7cm black felt for mouth
- 400~500g Polyester filling
- 2cm red button, 2cm black button for eyes
- 6 x 1.3cm black buttons
- pink, black and red thread
- pink pastels/pen for cheeks
Field Guide to Silk
Silk is a natural fiber formed out of the cocoon of the mulberry worm. As a protein fiber, it can be dyed easily with acid-dyes (Rit and Dylon contain one, you can make your own with food coloring and some vinegar, or buy bulk acid dyes). Heavier silks can be machine-washed, but with caution - silk fibers become more fragile and prone to breaking when wet, and the fineness of the the individual fibers means they snag easily - it may be safer to handwash or dry-clean silk simply for peace of mind. The fineness of the fibers also mean that cut edges will fray more readily than things like cotton or wool, and you should use a fine needle with a sharp point to reduce snags in sewing.
Generally it’s far less expensive to buy white silk and dye it to the color you need - I use Dharma Trading Company for both fabric and dyes. Also, my use-recommendations aren’t as great here because the distinctions in varieties of silk fabric are a lot more subtle than cotton. They’re generally very formal fabrics, and it gets into a degree of personal choice for an item - how much shine or drape do you want it to have, and such.
Organza - a stiff, sheer plain-weave silk with a touch of shine. The stiffness means it’ll hold shapes well. Uses: Trim, decorations on outfits.
Chiffon - a crepe-weave silk, which can come in different weights but generally is very sheer, gauzy, and has a lot of flow to it. It also has a subtle sheen to it. Uses: dresses, overlayers, blouses and skirts in heavier weights.
Habotai silk - Also known as ‘China Silk’. It’s a tight, plain weave, which means it has a little bit of stiffness and will hold shapes better than some of the more drapey silks. It also has some sheen to it, though not to the degree of satins. Uses: Shirts, dresses, skirts.
Silk Twill - A twill-weave silk (bet you didn’t see that coming) - it has a little more drape than Habotai, as well as a little more sheen. Plus the eternal classiness of twill-weave. Uses: Shirts, skirts, dresses with a more ‘modern’ look - more ‘business’ formal than ‘ballgown’ formal.
Crepe de Chine - a very flowy crepe-weave silk in multiple weights with a subtle sheen. This is the closest thing I’ve found to the highly specialized crepe-weave found in kimono silks which is only produced in Japan and thus very very expensive to obtain. Uses: More informal skirts and dresses, Japanese traditional formalwear.
Charmeuse - a crepe-back satin - has a much higher sheen than anything mentioned so far, as is true of most satin-weave fabrics. It’s also very soft, and while not quite as flowy as chiffon, it has a fair bit of drape. Uses: Formal evening skirts and dresses
Silk velvet - silk backing with a rayon pile. Subtle hint of sheen, with an incredibly soft feel. Because of the fabric blend, it can be used in the Devore technique, where a chemical that dissolves the rayon but not the silk is applied, leaving the gauzy silk backing in the ‘burnout’ areas. Uses: Dresses, jackets, fancyass cloaks.
Devore Satin - A high-shine silk/rayon blend - like the silk velvet mentioned above, it can be ‘etched’, dissolving the rayon fibers in patterns and leaving the lacy silk portion behind. Uses: Places you’d use satin, but want to do burnout patterns.
Dupion (and shantung) - Shimmery plain-weave silks with a tight weave and a certain bit of stiffness. Both use silk fiber that has some slubs and irregularities, giving the fabric a degree of texture. Uses: Dresses, jackets and slacks with a little more visual interest.
Shot-silk tafetta - a fairly stiff, close-woven plain-weave. It is notable in being the only one on this list you can’t dye yourself - the main attraction to shot-silk is the color-play, which is achieved by using different colors for the warp and weft thread, giving a fabric that shifts in shade based on angle. Uses: Jackets, dresses, skirts.
These I all have samples of (hooray for Dharma Trading’s sample swatch packs!), so if you have more questions or want a recommendation for a particular outfit feel free to shoot me an ask!
I have been cursed with bushy, thick eyebrows. And when I cosplay, sometimes the shape of my eyebrows frustrate me because I feel they don’t suit the character. (I mainly have this problem when I cosplay girls. When I crossplay guys, it fits. OTL;;;)
Cosplaying Eren will be super easy.
BUT THEN….THEN VALDA SHOWED ME THIS VIDEO. AND HE HAS THICK EYEBROWS. JUST LIKE ME. AND IN THIS VIDEO HE DEMONSTRATES HOW TO COVER THICK EYEBROWS.
THANK YOU, GOOD SIR. YOU HAVE SAVED US.
At last, I finished my Sailor Fuku tutorial! My Sailor Moon costumes get the most questions by far, and I’ve been meaning to put together this tutorial …
Foam finger armor - http://rufflebuttcosplay.deviantart.com/art/How-to-make-Finger-Armor-with-Foam-Sheets-359322170
Gogglesandglasses sells thousands of quality, low price sunglasses, goggles, and accessories.
cheap glasses cause i never want to lose this link again
alcyonsa asked: Do you know any good Pleated Skirt/ Dress tutorial? Im trying to cosplay Annie from League of Legends!
Here are some pleated skirt tutorials!:
I like to give multiple tutorials so that you can choose which is best for you. :)
Thank you so much for asking!!!